This Seiko 6619-8230 is a masterpiecelarge and beautifully designed!Here on Fratello, we ran an in-depth article on Seiko’s and this made a lot of sense because the watches are truly sporty, contain rotating bezels and other things that collectors desire. We’ve also talked about older (or vintage-inspired). That being said, we’ve left out a major portion of the vintage Seiko catalog during our journeys and this sub-genre is none other than the “regular” collection. I’ve chosen to use some of these models (yes, I threw in a few sport divers with rotating bezels that I’ve recently restored or that are on their way into the spa) that I’ve picked up over the years as the focal point for illustrating our Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide because so many are anything but regular. The large-cased manual wind Seiko 6602-9981 that cost $25 – it looks fantatsic on a bright NATO. This Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide Focuses on the AffordableAlso, as more background before jumping into the Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide, why did I buy these not so sporty/not so dressy watches?

Jul 21, 2009 - All Seiko's should have a Serial number on the case back The first number in the Serial is the last number in. Can someone tell me how old is this seiko watch please?

Well, I bought them for the same reasons that I’ve bought scads of other Seiko’s plus an added bonus: these watches are dirt cheap. The basic reasons for buying any vintage Seiko are simple. First, I’m fairly convinced that you actually have to work to kill off a Seiko. One of the more common and affordable Seiko Sport Divers is this 6119-6023.As my buddy Andreas likes to say, old Seikos are like Toyotas (same country, by the way) because they simply don’t die and they’re easy to fix. Second, and we’ve said this so many times, but it’s worth repeating because these are cheap watches – Seiko’s quality was simply ridiculous. These watches were built with robotic efficiency – which is admittedly pretty non-sexy compared to the thought of someone toiling away in the hills of Switzerland – but it has left us with some amazingly well-preserved pieces today.

Adding to that, the movements are bulletproof, many have never been restored or viewed, and still run amazingly well. Design wise, I ask you to take a look at the details: the hour markers, the case finishing, the dials and more because there’s usually more than meets the eye. Finally, as I’ve mentioned, these Seiko’s are cheap. I paid between $25 (yes, really) and $125 for everything that you’ll see here and in rare cases, I put another $70-80 of service on top. In a vintage watch world gone crazy and in a new watch world filled with loads of $250-300 faux-vintage pretenders (they’re fashion watches, let’s be honest), these Seiko’s just kill it with value. One of the most common vintage Seiko movements, the 6119, is showcased within this gorgeous Sport Diver, the 8120. A Guide to the GuideNow for some explanation on how to use this Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide.

From a movement perspective, I’ll discuss some of the key engines used in three-hand watches – these were used in sports watches, dress watches and everything in between. When we talk about how to “date” a vintage Seiko, finding crystals, and other things, the guide works across all types of Seiko’s. Whatever we discuss, if there topics that only refer to certain types of Seiko’s, I’ll do my best to make a note of it. Finally, as I mentioned above, exceptions exist – so, when buying, ask within your favorite Seiko forum such as the or if you’re unsure! A snap back on a manual wind Seiko 6602-9981 from January, 1968.

Understanding Vintage Seiko NomenclatureI think it’s appropriate to kick off our Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide with a lesson on naming convention. When we talk nomenclature, most (but definitely not all as we see on some manual wind pieces) Seiko’s carry a name using the format of “xxxx-yyyy” where both the “x’s” and “y’s” are numbers. The “x’s” in this case designate a movement reference.

This is important because when looking for vintage models, a given movement often spans the gamut of dress to serious dive watch and only the power plant inside is the same. Also, if you’re interested in a given model, when you begin to research specifics, you may even find that a movement – I’m thinking of the ever popular 6106 automatic – began its production without hacking or even with a quickset date but not day and then transitioned a year or two later. Some popular references that present opportunities are the 5126, 6106, 6119, 6619, and 7019 but this is by no means an exhaustive list. When sifting through eBay, you’ll see other popular number searches once you try one of the references above, so my advice is to get lost down the rabbit hole and enjoy the ride – the myriad number of variations will blow you away. Also, as a little check, look on the dial below 6:00 and you’ll find the movement number noted there as well.

The Seiko 5126-8100 from 1979 “just” qualifies as vintage and note that it still carries the Daini symbol on the dial.When it comes to the model number, or “yyyy”, portion of the name, this is where the individual design is defined. Seiko was a touch tricky with this because there are sometimes multiple 4-digit codes that reference similar or same models. It’s ok as Seiko often did this to designate models for different markets (ex: Japan versus rest of world). If you have doubts, and this is a good rule of thumb for any Seiko, go to Google images and type in the full name of the watch (all 8 digits) and ensure that the watch you desire has the right case back.

Case backs are interchangeable, so ensuring the right case back is with the right watch is key! This rough and tumble Seiko 6619-8060 from March, 1967 will look great after a service, new crystal and a hand relume. These Arabic-dialed ipeces are desirable, yet affordable, as they were popular with soldiers in Vietnam. Note the hidden crown. Crownsa Purposeful AfterthoughtLet’s talk crowns for our Vintage Seiko Buyer’s guide. The positive for originality sticklers on this front is that Seiko didn’t sign them.

On the other hand, Seiko crowns are specific. They often either were concave-inward or contained a smooth surface that appears as a “cap” above the ridges. For the watches we’re discussing today, none are screw-down and many are impossibly small. Why are they so small? I’ve mentioned this before, but it’s worth repeating: Seiko was very proud of its “magic lever system”.

This system allowed for the rotor to wind the mainspring when spinning in either direction and, therefore, Seiko was of the opinion that the user should “set it and forget it”. Going one step further, none of the vintage Seiko automatics can be hand wound – so the crown is not an oft-used control. A 7006-8059 purchased for about $45. Sure, it needs a crystal, but it runs perfectly. Acrylic or Hardlex, it’s Crystal ClearCrystal-wise, vintage Seiko’s came with either Seiko’s own Hardlex mineral glass or acrylic. Finding out the model number – as beat up and unsalvageable crystals are very much normal when locating good deals – is a breeze with this. Simply enter the full model number and you’ll receive the crystal part number.

Then, head over to eBay or the for sale board on your favorite Seiko forum and unless it’s something truly odd, you’ll likely find one immediately for about $10. As mentioned, bad crystals are very normal on old Seiko’s as most previous owners never had interest in fixing what was a rather inexpensive watch. But – it’s one of the best tips I can give in this Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide; never let a bad crystal stop you from buying an otherwise great watch! Despite some rough cases and wabi, either of these pieces would look great on a rustic strap or NATO. “Wabi-Sabi” – a Must in any Vintage Seiko Buyer’s GuideTime to talk dials and hands Older Seiko’s are famous for obtaining what collectors note as “wabi-sabi”.

In Seiko speak, this usually means patina x 10. These lovely Japanese watches often spent a heck of a lot of time in humid environments weren’t serviced and moisture made its way into the watch. Oddly enough, moisture didn’t stop most old Seiko’s but it did create some odd aging on the lume and hands to the point that some look downright fungal!

The wild thing with Seiko’s is that some people love a lot of funk and some don’t. So, if you don’t love it, keep moving, but unless the movement is a rust trap, don’t be surprised if the old beast ticks on reliably after a simple service. The “Suwa” symbol as seen on the case back of a Seiko 6119-8400 from March, 1970.Some more tips are in order on the cosmetic side for this Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide. It truly pays to do your research when it comes to hands.

One of the most common mistakes I see in vintage Seiko are incorrectly replaced hands. Finding correct hands can be a real challenge, so I usually walk away. Oh, one other tip for good measure.

See that funky little symbol above 6:00? If it looks like a hash sign that’s tilted 45 degrees, it’s from Seiko’s “Suwa” or “first” factory. A look at the back of 7006-8059 model from July of 1972. Note the “Daini” factory symbol on the back.If it looks like a sideways lightning bolt, it’s from the “Daini” or “second” factory. An awesome fact is that these sites both designed and produced unique movements!

I’ve noted that Daini pieces are tougher to find and often have a crown at 3:00 instead of the normal 4:00. Also, Daini watches often change date via pulling out and turning the crown whereas Suwa pieces typically allow the change to occur by repeatedly pushing the crown inwards and allowing it to spring back. A look at the back of the Seiko Sportsmatic 6619-8060 from March, 1967. As this is an “earlier” vintage piece, it lacks a Suwa or Daini logo on the case back.

Intelligent Numbers – Dating your SeikoWhat would the Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide be without a tip on dating your new/old watch? Well, here again, Seiko makes things simple. A quick look at the back will yield a serial number that is normally 6 digits. The first digit tells us the year of production and the second number tells us the month.

If you know the decade, you’re all set – it’s that easy! A Seiko 6119-8300 “Rally Diver” in need of a service and crystal. This was a $70 find on a really desirable watch – note the faded but original bezel. Sometimes it Pays to Scrape the Bottom of the BarrelNow, I’ll share some subjective advice within this Vintage Seiko Buyer’s Guide on condition and pricing. Consistent with my comment above about crystal condition, I like finding “diamonds in the rough”.

I don’t like beat up watches, but it is common to find desirable Seiko’s with loads of wrist DNA and truly awful straps attached to them that often detract from a listing. Another very common movement is the bulletproof 6106. Here it is found on the sporty 8237 from the late 60’s/early 70’s. This one has its original bracelet.On the note of accessories, I rarely care about bracelets and would barely pay more for a supposed original one on a watch because they’re often stretched, flimsy or – strangely – ugly. I also rarely care about whether a 3-handed Seiko is operational because they are all repairable.

The only exceptions to the rule are with chronographs (can be fixed, but it adds a measure of difficulty), divers that are missing bezels, or divers where the internal bezels no longer rotate. I also stay away from watches with missing or incorrect hands because life is too short to search and – normally – there are other watches out there to select. This Seiko 66-7109 with original beads of rice bracelet and manual wind movement isn’t huge but is a “blast from the past” with its production in the mid 1970’s. Vintage Seiko – a Great Alternative to Faux Retro WatchesWhen it comes to pricing, I can tell you that I spent no more than $125 for any of these watches. It is funny because you will often see similar models selling for a wide range of prices – it’s just the way that it goes and I often cannot explain it! Coming back to an example on this page, the manual wind Seiko “Sportsman” model does have a chrome case, but it cost a whopping $25, keeps amazing time and is a large watch.

Speaking of size, all of these pieces are above 36mm and some command significantly more space on the wrist. To me, that makes them highly wearable as everyday pieces. Plus, note the rich array of colors and one can see how 5-10 of these could easily find their way to your collection. The Seiko 6119-8400 from the front. Just look at that dial and the attention to detail.

How much is my seiko watch worth

Vintage Seiko Watch Finder Reviews

Try and find something Swiss for $100 that looks like that!As mentioned, head over to eBay and kill an hour looking at multitudes of vintage Seiko’s. Yes, many will come from the Far East, but the prices often make the risk worthwhile. Many friends of mine are die-hard Swiss watch fans and they quietly refuse to go down the Seiko path. Maybe it’s because these Japanese watches are everywhere – I like to think it’s their fantastic build quality – or because they lack some of the traditional styling found on Swiss watches. I’m not sure of all the reasons, but I do think that if you exclude adding a nice vintage example from one of the world’s most innovative and successful watch companies, you’re missing out on a real opportunity. Plus, they’re often cheap! I hope you enjoyed this “starter” look at a Vintage Seiko Buyers Guide.

Vintage Seiko Watch Finder Watches

Feel free to add your tips below or some pics of some of your favorite bargain classic Seiko’s! Enjoy the heck out of your hunt!

Vintage Seiko Watch Bands

It’s the New Year and as many people put together resolution lists, we thought we’d do the same and kick off the year with a look at 10 Vintage Seiko watches you should buy right now. Our admiration for Seiko is pretty transparent – from its new releases that we anticipate each March at Basel to our many in-depth articles on classic references (and a recent look on affordable vintage ) – we find that the brand from Japan has so much to offer. Some of our chosen models are extremely familiar and have been covered while some are less known, but still significant. So, Happy New Year and, in no particular order, let’s talk vintage Seiko. Reference 6309 Seiko 6309A list of top Vintage Seiko watches absolutely has to include the.

It’s a legendary reference that continues to grow in popularity, status, and, unfortunately, price. Still, though, this chunky cushion-cased diver with a non hand-winding automatic can be found with just a little bit of hard work for around the $400 mark in original condition. We covered the pitfalls one needs to consider when hunting down this 150M diver in an article from 2015, but once a good example is found, it’s such a satisfying quality piece to wear.

The 6309 is a Seiko that finds its way into the collections of those who generally prefer far more expensive brands such as Rolex because of the watch’s simple, yet iconic looks and functionality. Robert-Jan sourced one last year and we think Gerard is trawling the market as well – this is one contagious watch! Plus, it’s a “go anywhere” timepiece that could serve as one’s only watch, but we’re here to talk 10 watches, right? 6139 Pogue Seiko 6139 PogueSome may consider the to be a bit of an eccentric selection within our top 10 Vintage Seiko watches list, but I’m ready to defend the choice. First, if the “Pogue” isn’t the cheapest vintage space flown watch (it went up with Col. William Pogue in 1973 as part of Skylab), it has to be in the running. Next, the 6139 was one of the movements in the race for first automatic chronograph in 1969 – depending on what you want to believe, it can make a claim as the first – and contains a robust, column-wheel equipped movement.

Next, and hear me out here, while other dial colors exist, I find the bright yellow dial of the Pogue to be emblematic of Seiko’s design language during the late 60’s-mid 70’s. It’s funky and immediately signifies a different age, but it has aged beautifully.

Several variations on the “Pogue” theme exist, but my suggestion is to track down any correct 6139 with a yellow dial. Figure on $500 give or take and that should land you a great vintage chronograph. Reference 6138 Seiko 6138 “Panda” or “Kakume”It’s not necessarily fair to choose two models as one entry within our top Vintage Seiko watches list, but I struggled to pick a clear winner.

The 6138 is a relative of the aforementioned 6139 but contains a second sub register and can be hand wound. Apparently, and this is seen by its numerically earlier reference, this is the movement Seiko wanted to release first in 1969, but due to its complexity, it simply wasn’t ready yet. In the two watches mentioned, especially when it comes to the “Panda”, you have what are amongst the most collected and expensive vintage Seiko chronographs on the market.

Seiko 6138-8020 – photo courtesy of thosewatchguys.comThe “Panda” routinely eclipses $1,000 and the “Kakume” isn’t terribly far behind. Credit relatively classic dials evocative of Swiss brands, serious weight, build quality, and you have a recipe for watches that likely draw in non-Seiko collectors. As always, watch out for aftermarket replacement parts; the market is sadly rife with them. If these legends are too rich for your liking, grab any and enjoy 95% of the feeling for less than 50% of the price!

Seiko Rally DiversTack on large size, beautiful silver, black or blue dials, and bulletproof automatic movements and you can see why these early 1970’s Seiko’s stand out from the crowd. There’s little difference between the 6106 and 6119 movements aside from extra jewels in the latter. The more noticeable contrast comes on the dial, as 6119’s are part of the “Seiko 5” series. Bezels are prone to fading and one has to be mindful of ensuring the rest of the cosmetic parts are original, but great pieces can still be found for around $400. I’ve sourced several of these for under $200 and Robert-Jan recently landed a great example at a price below market. The Rally Diverdiving and classic car themes all in one watch? 45-7001 King Seiko A Hi-Beat King SeikoYou’ve read here and elsewhere about the over-the-top quality of Grand Seiko new and old, but you’ve probably read a bit less about the brand’s other former top tier series: King Seiko.

We’ve detailed a couple pieces – both a and Hi-Beat (machine gunning at 36,000 bph) – and believe us, the quality is about 98% as good as a Grand Seiko. Translating that into Swiss terms, a King Seiko trumps just about everything out there from the neutral country from the same time frame of the late 60’s to mid 70’s. Take into account that good King Seiko’s can be found for under $600 all day long and you have one of the greatest dress watch bargains in the watch world. Seiko reference 5625-7000I mentioned a “Hi-Beat” movement because these early pieces bring in innovation and accuracy that only a few other brands were employing. Plus, I like the razor-esque slab sided “Grammar of Design” styling and the oft-found gold medallions on the case back. Look out for severe dial staining due to moisture, but otherwise buy with confidence as these watches run like a diesel.

Interestingly, Gerard, Blaise, Robert-Jan and I all own examples of early King Seiko’s making this the most popular Seiko on the team. Seiko Reference 6117 Seiko 6117 NavigatorNo list of top Vintage Seiko watches you should buy now is complete without the. Seiko offered this piece in several designs, but with one real constant – a dual time zone movement that mimics the famous Rolex GMT. In Seiko’s version, though, you have the choice of a model with an external 24-hour bezel, an internal 24-hour bezel and models with a rotating internal bezel that features city names. The early Navigator, reviewed on #TBT, with external bezel is the simplest design and apes a sport diver model from Seiko at the time. These tend to realize the highest prices of all the Navigators with $500 – 600 now a typical cost of entry. Other models tend to sell in the $300 – 450 range and that makes them a nice deal.

Of course, like all Seiko’s, the movement is bulletproof and unlike period Rolex GMT 1675’s that cost 15-20X, this watch contains a handy quickset date. Seiko Reference 6105-8110 Seiko 6105-8110 DiverThe second diver to enter our list of top Vintage Seiko watches is the distinctively cased. If I look at the family tree of professional Seiko divers, this model is my favorite. It set the trend of large, asymmetrically shaped cushion cased divers for the brand and it’s a design language that is still seen today. It had an innovative, but rather forgettable locking crown design combined with an iconic dial and bezel and its rugged build and capabilities also led to its popularity amongst US soldiers in Vietnam. Famously, it was donned by Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now.

These 6105’s now tend to run above $1,000 but you still find them for less at times. They’re often found with heavy patina and loads of scratches – it’s a big case so it tends to smack into things – but they look good with a ton of character and the trademark “waffle” strap.

Here again, the movement is stellar and there’s little to worry about function-wise. As far as iconic vintage divers go, I still consider this one to be a serious bargain. It may have come after the legendary, yet traditionally styled 62MAS, but I still think this is the one to have. 6159-7010 Seiko 6159 TunaThe last diver to make roll call in the top Vintage Seiko watches list is the undeniably quirky. We’ve covered this watch heavily here on Fratello Watches as both and I own them.

Even though it’s a bit impractical, that tall, shrouded titanium case makes for a tough daily wear, the Tuna is such an icon that it just might be my candidate for a response to the question of “if you had to buy one Seiko, which would you buy?” The 1960’s and 1970’s brought so much inventiveness when it came to divers and the Tuna belongs right there in the crowd amongst legends such as Omega’s Ploprof, Rolex’s Sea Dweller and Doxa’s 300. Seiko 6159-7010It was a creative solution to the needs of deep-water workers and it’s a model that still exists today – in even deeper form. 6159’s have finally moved off the $1500 – 1800 range and now seem to cost around $2,000. They contain rugged hi-beat automatics and outstandingly cool finishing.

Still, this price level is not insignificant, so I wouldn’t look down on anyone who decides to buy the less expensive late 70’s 7549-7009 (aka the Gold Tuna) as it was the first quartz professional diver. The Seiko Tuna – it’s almost like a brand on its own.

Seiko Lord Marvel 5740 Seiko Lord Marvel 5740If the other pieces in this article jump out as “no-brainer” picks for the top Vintage Seiko watches to buy now, the Lord Marvel 5740 likely stands out as a real surprise. It’s a simple looking dress watch that’s attractive enough, but it’s a case where there’s a lot more than meets the eye. This watch was the model that first showcased Seiko’s entry into the world of Hi-Beat 36,000 bph movements. The brand debuted their 5740 movement in 1967 which was only one year after Girard Perregaux introduced the world’s first. Aside from being extremely accurate, a Hi-Beat movement is extraordinary to watch – the seconds hand just glides – and hear. These 5740’s aren’t big by any means at 35mm, but due to their design with decently sized lugs, they wear like a nice dress watch and fit most wrists. Best of all, if you find a cleanly dialed example, $250 should be more than enough to grab history.If a King Seiko is still too much for your budget, this is your next best answer.

For more info, friend and big-time Seiko collector Christoph McNeill wrote a really nice review on WornAndWound.Seiko 7Axx Quartz ChronographAs our last, but not least, choice on Vintage Seiko watches to buy now, I’m going down the electrical impulse path. Quartz – yes, that’s correct. In 1982, Seiko debuted the 7A28 as the world’s first analog quartz chronograph. Today, I’d make the claim that this chronograph and its relatives, the 7A38 and 7A48, are still highly impressive pieces of machinery. Digital watches have their place, but I’d argue that the 7A28, with its 15-jewel serviceable movement, split timing capabilities and 1/10 second timing is masterfully built.

I own a – same family but with day and date – and it’s such a well executed watch that it easily competes with many of my favorite purely mechanical pieces. Seiko 7A28Somehow, with their often elegant and timeless designs, these chronographs manage to achieve something that most battery-powered watches (including many by Seiko) cannot – specifically they have heart. No matter the “7A” variant, options exist for less than $200 and the chief concern is whether all the functions are operational. If not, though, they can be serviced and returned to working order.

Despite an electronic heart, these 7A’s garner a lot of collector interest and good ones are starting becoming scarce. Grandfather Tuna and Tuna The Top Vintage Seiko WatchesSo, that’s it for our list of Vintage Seiko watches that you should buy now.

As noted in a recent article on affordable vintage Seiko, there are so many models out there to consider, that it’s difficult to go wrong. Also, I am sure there are fanatics out there who could easily compile a “top 10” list for every sub-genre of vintage Seiko – there are simply that many rabbit holes one can choose to explore. Of course, any time one chooses a specific list, there’s bound to be some controversy, so let’s hear your thoughts on what we may have missed. Happy (Seiko) hunting!